posted by pierce on Apr 3
We were awakened by the high plains birds chirping outside our windows at the Holiday Inn Express in Cortez, Colorado. I scurried down the hall to retrieve a couple cups of coffee for myself and the love of my life, Lana. Next I took Romeo, our dog out back to relieve himself and chase a couple Prairie dogs that popped up, eeked at him, and dove back down in their burrows as he closed in on them. Then another would pop up, and eek at him from the opposite end of the field and off he’d go. At one point he paused and looked and looked to me for guidance as if to ask “where the hell is the mallet for this damn whack-a-mole game?” I called him to me and we went back inside to checkout, load up the Baddogs S.U.V. and head out for one of my favorite sunrise drives from Cortez, Co. to Telluride, Co. over Lizard Head pass. We headed east towards the sun peeking over the horizon and as we drove the sun dappled through the aspen trees that flanked the creek that riffled over and around the rocks that had cascaded down the flanks of the mountains that hemmed our passage. If you leave early enough you can avoid the huge elephantine R.V.s that can bog you down and impair your enjoyment. Wisps of clouds clung to the mountains on both sides of the road and the ethereal experience was well worth the early rising. As we approached Lizard Head pass which is closed most of the winter you could see deer and elk by the sides of the road cautiously monitoring our passage like a security force of mountainous mutes. As we started our descent from Lizard Head we spotted the twinkling light sparkling on Trout Lake just prior to our turn away from Telluride,Co. towards Montrose,Co. After Montrose,Co. we headed towards Gunnison,Co. and as we left the town of Montrose we began to ascend again towards the Black Canyon national park. This is one of the largest and wildest national parks in the continental United States and it is magnificient.
To enter this part of Colorado you have to climb up and ease down into into narrow canyons which all have rivers brimming with snowmelt parallelling the highways. Sometimes the sun doesn’t even shine in these narrow high walled canyons until after 10:30 a.m. Anyway we were rolling good towards the Gunnison valley resovoir which you run alongside for awhile before crossing a bridge to the other side. Once we crossed the lake and hit the other side we decided to take a break after this R.V. campsite so we turned down this little peninsula where they have a unisex bathroom by the lakeshore. We park, jump out, let the dog run free and take turns in relieving our bladders. As I exit this spotless facility ever busy Romeo swoops up a Prairie dog and I tell him to release and he does looking mortally wounded by my orders, yet he starts to reload to pursue another. So we call him, saddle up, and off we drive. As we enter Gunnison we stop for groceries at the local Walmart because the prices in Crested Butte, Co. are astronomical compared to our present location. Once again we load up the vehicle with our new supplies and head out for the final leg of this western journey. It’s approximately 30 miles to Crested Butte and as we approach this beautiful spot you can see the snow topped peaks that herald the heights of this beautiful block canyon. We go to the condo office retrieve the key for our unit and march up and down three flights of stairs to bring in our gear, clothes, and supplies. By now we’re panting like prizefighters in the fifteenth round because we are doing this at 9500 feet altitude. We quickly establish our command center and go for a hike with no leash because there are no leash laws on the mountain. Hallelujah, we’re now footloose and fancy free in the wild, wild, west! Actually there is a bar in town called Kocheevers where allegedly Butch Cassidy or the Sundance kid left one of their six shooters when they had to skedaddle because a posse was riding in from Gunnison to arrest and hang em for rustling cattle. So they lit out for Rustler’s Gulch, another nice hike for another day. The locals are standoffish at first but the accomodations, restaurants, and shops are considerably less than anything in Aspen,Co. which is eighteen miles away as the crow flies. Anyway after the hike we clean up, change, and walk across the ski mountain to eat on the deck of this local restaurant, the Avalanche. We tuck Romeo under the table, consume some tall waters and a wonderful meal. Everything tastes great at 9500′. As the sun starts to swoop down out of the sky we head back across the mountain when I spy a huge black dog trundling down the hill towards town. Lana tells me to put on my glasses because it’s no Newfoundland..it’s a young black bear. I call Romeo to me, slap a leash on him, head for the condo, and a well needed night’s sleep.
We arise invigorated by 40 degree temperatures and let Romeo out the patio sliding door to view clouds hovering over Crested Butte, the western town with a population of 1600 people with 600 dogs year round. After a brisk hike up the mountain where we encounter no one and Romeo scampers about smelling pee-mail of larger animals he’s never before had a whiff of we head back to the condo, clean up, and jump into the vehicle to cruise into town and notify the vet, Laura Ramos that we’ve arrived and are ready to resolve any and all dog problems. Laura and her staff greet us with their laid back laconic manner that seems to be pervasive in this tiny community and I hug each and everyone, scaring each and everyone with my typical big city gregarious nature. After a short visit we head to breakfast at the Paradise Cafe where we power down vittles like starving lumberjacks. At this altitude you can eat anything and never gain a pound which is a nice benefit of vacationing at altitude. The downside is you should limit alcohol consumption and drink lots of water for the first 48 hours you’re here to help your body acclimatize. After a late breakfast we head back up the mountain for a power nap where we sleep like innocents, rise after an hour, and gear up for another adventure since the sun doesn’t set until 8:30 p.m. So we head up Slate river road to an unmarked turnoff onto a single dirt track and I hand the driver’s seat over to Lana as we start four wheeling in earnest up this one lane dirt track and of course we get a flat tire just prior to the crest blocking traffic in both directions with maybe 3 feet of clearance on one side with a 500 feet sheer drop and 3 feet to a dirt wall on the other. Kind, generous folk help us change the tire and we eventually reach the top of the mountain where we pause by a small snowmelt lake to gather ourselves and get the heck out of everyone’s way. But now the rumor mill is lathered up and everyone knows the ex-Newyorker is in town with his ex-Chicago love ready to resolve all canine behavioral problems and disturb their complacent lifesyle.
After a momentary pause I drove the backway down the mountain and skirted through Gothic, a small hippie enclave where the Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratories operates during the summer season. The roads are impassable during the winter months and I’m affraid no power lines run out there. Anyway after cautiously meandering through this tiny outpost on the periphery of Mt. Crested Butte we shuddered over dirt roads through towering aspen groves inundated with deer and elk until we gained purchase on a paved road descending through the aforementioned Mt. Crested Butte to finally arrive back at our command center feeling like we’d been rode hard and put away wet. All in all another adventure that didn’t go as planned but ended well in the long run. I believe we stayed in that evening, ate homemade sandwiches, took hot showers, and went to bed early. Despite the worrisome task of replacing our tire the next day we once again slept like innocents.
The next day we called Timber Sleds and reserved a couple Polaris ATV’s, dropped Romeo off at a day kennels and met Greg, the owner of Timbersleds (snowmobile and Atv rentals) at a designated trailhead for an attempt to travel halfway to Aspen, Co. through the wilderness. There is one trail you can four wheel all the way but unfortunately the name of said trail eludes me at the moment but it’s well marked on all trail maps and it’s a pip. Lana had never driven an All Terrain Vehicle (ATV) but after she forded her first stream with fear and trepidation and she blasted through it successfully she was raring to go. So off we went! As you climb and level out at various meadows in between woods and rock scree you arrive at new plateaus where all sorts of wildlife forages. We encountered big horned sheep, deer, elk, foxes, and bear. The most amazing part was when we found ourselves crossing boulder strewn hillsides rearranged in last year’s avalanches and I mean boulders as large as Volkswagens(beetles) but these machines handled these seemingly impassable areas with ease. We made it halfway to Aspen, turned back, and met Greg at the appointed hour, thanked him, and wobbled to our car like bowlegged cowboys after an arduous cattle drive. We arrived at the kennels where Romeo roughhoused with new dog friends all day and he was tired and ecstatic to see us. Believe me the feeling was mutual. There is so much to do here if you like the outdoors that I can hardly scrape the surface of the myriad daily adventures we enjoyed but suffice it to say this is the wildest of the wild west in the continental United States. This used to be the summer encampment for the indigenous indian tribe, the Utes. If you’ve been romanticizing about the wild west, go online and google Crested Butte,Colorado. The locals are a little standoffish at first but most of their livelihoods depend on tourism so just be persistent, pleasant, and patient because they move at slower paces than most of us big city folk. There is something for everyone here. If you are hungry for comfort food try Slogars where their fried chicken, mashed potatoes, and creamed corn dinners fill you up when you’re depleted after a day of biking, hiking, fishing, AtVing, or just wandering and perusing the shops in town. If you go up to Kebler pass, the summer route to Aspen you’ll come upon a turnoff for Lake Irwin where you can fish and hike to your heart’s content. There are brooks and creeks everywhere and the friendliest dogs in the world live here as well. Crested Butte, Co. personifies the wild west to me in summer where Phoenix, Scottsdale, and Tucson do the same for me in winter. Durango, Co. has a plethora of fine restaurants but it gets hot in July and August. Because of the altitude there is no poison ivy, no poison oak, actually no poison anything but if you’re near a marshy area such as Peanut lake on the outskirts of C.B. bring mosqiutoe repellent because they’ll be on you like white on rice. They have free concerts on the mountain during the week and in town and a lot of international bands come through in the summer. If you need advice about where to eat, or hike stop into the Animal Hospital of Crested Butte, say hi to Moe at the front desk, tell her Pierce sent you and she’ll tell you where to go. If you have a dog and need care set an appointment to see Laura Ramos, she’s a fine vetinarian and a shining example of the locals. And after you’re acclimatized go to the Brick (the patio) on Elk street during happy hour and check out the young, fit, athletic, hardy, unique men and women there. Call or e-mail condos on the mountain to get the best accomodations at the best prices. Set up a base camp and make daily forays. You’ll have the time of your life, I guarrantee it! And when you are ready to see Phoenix, Scottsdale, and Tucson in the months of November through April inclusive give me a call at 602-955-1615 and I’ll give you all the free advice you’ll need. I think it’s a kick how I can communicate with people all over the world through my websites and hopefully Lana and I will run across you when we adventure in your area. Lana and I need to go pass out more T-shirts all over the world and remember…get endorphinized!!